Montevideo

Tucked neatly into Montevideo's rambunctious, slightly crumbly Ciudad Vieja neighborhood, Museo Torres Garcia pays tribute to the man who boldly declared the world's artistic compass upside-down-literally-by placing Uruguay proudly atop his iconic inverted map. Joaquin Torres Garcia, Uruguay's godfather of Constructive Universalism (which sounds complicated but basically meant he was forever shaking up the art world's tidy little snow globe), is given his rightful due in this quirky gem of a museum. Arrive mid-morning to dodge tour groups and grumpy school kids, planning at least a day ahead since Uruguayans typically frown upon tourists barging in spontaneously-though spontaneity somehow remains their national sport. The entrance fee won't dent your travel budget-set aside a modest $5-7 USD equivalent and carry small denominations; big bills earn you an eye-roll and a sigh. Bring along a notebook, as you'll feel oddly compelled to sketch something abstract and inscrutable afterward, or at least jot down Torres Garcia's witty musings for your pretentious dinner-party repertoire. Even if your grasp of art history begins and ends at "this looks weird," a visit here is worth it-if only so you can smugly declare at your next social gathering, "Oh yes, I've been to Uruguay's art museum where everything is upside-down, and frankly, the world makes more sense that way."

Forget Buenos Aires with its glossy postcards and choreographed shows-Montevideo is tango's gritty younger sibling, less polished but decidedly more intriguing. Here, tango simmers in street corners and hidden milongas, where dancers move with the swagger of pirates who've traded rum for melancholic melodies. Tango, after all, sprang from the streets, born from immigrant melancholy and forbidden passions, and Uruguayans proudly insist their capital's version predates Argentina's glossy export-but maybe that's just the mate talking. The best shows don't start until near midnight, so caffeinate wisely or embrace your inner nocturnal creature. Plan ahead-but not too far; the real charm comes from stumbling spontaneously onto a cobblestoned plaza lit by flickering street lamps, where locals dance beneath stars and vintage posters crackle in the wind. Budget around twenty bucks for a strong drink and entry into a sweaty, dimly lit club, and wear shoes capable of both dancing and running away (in case you accidentally offend a seasoned tanguero by stepping on their toes). It's worth every minute, even if your performance earns you amused smirks and polite applause-after all, how many people can honestly say they've danced tango badly in Montevideo at 3 AM?

Taking the ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento feels like briefly cheating on the raucous Argentine capital with its quieter, wiser, and unsettlingly photogenic neighbor across the Rio de la Plata. This whimsical little Uruguayan outpost-part Portuguese, part Spanish, and wholly dedicated to postcard-perfect cobblestone streets-is the kind of place that makes you want to wear linen shirts and pretend you're an extra in a Graham Greene novel. Go early (catch the sunrise ferry if you're feeling pure of heart, or at least caffeinated enough), wander the 17th-century Barrio Historico before tour groups descend, and marvel at the peeling pastel walls and vintage cars so strategically rusted they seem suspiciously Instagram-ready. Book your ferry tickets online at least a day or two ahead-unless you enjoy chaos and existential dread-and budget around $100-$150 roundtrip, including empanadas and a cold cerveza by the picturesque waterfront. Bring your passport, sunscreen, comfortable shoes (those Instagrammable cobblestones love to twist ankles), and plenty of patience: Uruguay's charming, slower pace can sometimes feel like time itself has paused to admire the scenery. Even if historical architecture doesn't usually make your pulse quicken, Colonia del Sacramento is worth the detour-if only so you can return home claiming you've effortlessly crossed borders, sampling the world's easiest-going international adventure.